Slight Format Change

I just wanted to give you good folks a heads-up that the regular format, wherein I post a book review every Monday and a movie review every Tuesday will still appear this week. It is just being pushed back a few days.

SURVIVAL GEAR REVIEW: Rothco 36 Bulb LED Solar/Handcrank Lantern

Today I'm taking the opportunity to review the Rothco 36 Bulb LED Solar/Handcrank Lantern sold by our sponsor Camping Survival. Basically, what I did was to field test the unit here in my home; essentially, I just performed the handcrank motion for the one minute that is prescribed in the specs and then timed how long the lighting lasted on each of the two available brightness settings. Then, I tested the small solar panel on top of the unit by leaving it out in the sun for an entire day, and then timing the lighting in the same way I did during the first set of tests.

First, let's talk about the specs. The unit has a built-in Ni-MH rechargeable battery. As advertised, you are supposed to be able to get 20 minutes of light at the lower 18 LED setting or 10 minutes at the higher 36 LED setting after operating the handcrank for one minute. There are also specs as to what you will get out of a solar charge, but I will touch on that a bit later.

Let me start off by saying that this lantern exceeded my expectations. It doesn't put out a huge amount of light when you are depending on the handcrank, but it is more than enough for you to be able to see your way around in a darkened home during a grid-down situation. From a design standpoint, I also really like the little metal cage that encases the breakable parts of the unit, in case it should get knocked off of a table or something.

The first test that I ran was on the lower 18 LED setting that was supposed to provide 20 minutes of light. To be succinct, it provided *WAY* more than that. In an effort not to take up my entire night, I ended the test after 50 minutes, fully 2 1/2 times longer than what the specs said to expect. And, there was still light to spare. The unit was still running with only a very minimal fading in the amount of light it was putting out.

Next, I turned the handcrank for another full minute to get it back to a full charge and placed the unit on the higher 36 LED setting. As stated above, this was slated to provide 10 minutes of light. Again, the unit over-performed. I halted this test at fully three times what the specs told me to expect: 30 minutes. And, again, the unit was still working with only a minimal loss in brightness.

My first thought as to why it would be over-performing so much is that there might have been a residual charge on the battery from the factory. The only problem with that theory is that, when I took the unit out of the box, pressing the button to turn it on did absolutely nothing, until after I had turned the handcrank. Still, I decided it would be a good idea to go ahead and just allow it to run on my desk on the highest setting and see roundabout how long it would last before finally going dead.  The answer to that question comes in two parts: A.) I would say that the last useably significant light-output is at the 3 hour mark, give or take 30 minutes -- at that point, the unit was still throwing-off enough illumination for me to see well enough to walk around the room without bumping into things and I could see objects in the dark, but I wouldn't have tried reading by it; and, B.) The unit actually continued to put out at least some light for quite a while after that point.

Not bad for one minute of turning a handcrank.

And, finally, the last test involved an assessment of what kind of performance one might expect from a charge via the onboard solar panel on top of the unit. The specs claimed one would get 2 hours of "normal" light after 8.5 hours charging in the sun. Let me say I don't know what "normal" light is, but, as with the handcrank, I definitely got more than the proscribed 2 hours.

I actually did not have a high hopes for this test. I set the unit in a south-facing window all day, but the weather was not cooperative. It was cloudy and overcast all day and even rained up in these hills for a little while. After dark, I set the unit on my desk and switched it on to the lower 18 LED setting, and I was immediately surprised by how bright it was. It may actually have started out brighter than it did when I was testing the handcrank.

Two hours later, I still had light; three hours later, four hours later, five hours later, I still had light -- it had only decreased to the point where it wasn't as intense. In fact, as I write this a full 8 hours later, the LEDs are still lit, but I wouldn't go so far as to call what it's putting-out now useable light, much less "normal."  It far exceeded the 2 hours the specs told me to expect, though, by a long shot.

My final impressions are that this lantern is a nice little unit that anyone should feel happy to have as a part of their survival preparations. I'll be adding a second one myself (Two is one and one is none!)  It doesn't necessarily put out the kind of light that you might get from a more expensive kerosene or propane lantern (I wouldn't necessarily want to try to read by it or perform intricate tasks, though you could probably do so if you held it very close); but, then again, you also don't have any need to store extra wicks, kerosene, propane, or any other fuel to keep the unit ticking. What it will do is allow you to trade a very modest amount of your rapidly-depreciating, overly-inflated fiat currency for a piece of preparedness gear that will give you a modest amount of light to ensure that you and yours can see your way around in a grid-down or blackout scenario.

How to Keep Dogs and Other Household Pets Out of Your Garden

You spend all season hoeing, planting seeds, and keeping weeds out of your garden. You finally see your peas start to grow and your tomatoes start to climb -- and then your dog goes running through your rows and tramples it all to the ground. All your hard work is lost. Or maybe your dog's more of a muncher than a runner. Instead, he prefers to belly up to the salad bar that is your garden and to enjoy all-day grazing on your budding crops.

While you certainly love your dog, you also love having healthy and delicious food that you grew yourself. Here are a few tips for how you can keep your dogs or other household pets out of your garden so you can protect all the hard work you have put in:

Put Up a Fence

The easiest way to keep any pests out of your garden is to put a fence around it. If you like a more decorative look, you can choose a small wooden fence that is high enough to keep your dogs from running through. If you want something that looks more natural, opt for chicken wire. It will blend in with the plants and will be unobtrusive.

Of course, unless you put in a fence that comes up to your torso -- or unless you have very small dogs -- your dogs are likely to be able to jump over whatever fence you put in. However, it will keep them from mindlessly wandering through and trampling tender plants.

Sprinkle Red Pepper Flakes

Dogs have a keen sense of smell. By sprinkling red pepper flakes around your garden, you will make the area an unpleasant place to visit. Purchase the flakes in bulk and then sprinkle them around the bed and between the rows. Make sure to re-apply after it has rained as the water will wash them away.

Spray Apple Bitter

You can also make your plants taste unpleasant. Spraying apple bitter or even white vinegar will make the plants taste very bitter to your dog, but it won't harm the plant. Of course, if you are spraying plants that are almost ready for harvest, you will want to wash them well once you bring them inside to get rid of the residue (and the bad taste for you).

Put Down Stone Chips

Instead of spreading mulch around your garden, spread decorative stone chips. They'll make the area look nice, but they'll also make it unpleasant for your dog to walk through the area. You can create a path around the garden to form a protective barrier. Make sure the path is wide enough that your dog can't simply leap over it to get into your garden.

Plant Thorny Bushes

Spiky, thorny bushes can also provide a natural barrier for your garden. Your dogs and other pests won't like trying to squeeze through and being pricked by the thorns. Plant holly bushes or thorny rose bushes to not only keep them out, but also to provide a decorative border for your garden.

You don't have to chose between your garden or your dogs. They can both peacefully co-exist if you use some of these strategies to keep your dog out of your garden and to protect your crops. Your dog can still have the run of the yard, but you won't have to worry about your beds being trampled.

How do you keep your dog and other pets out of your garden? Share your tips in the comments!


Amber Satka writes on financial topics, and much of her research can be found at her app site: carloancalculator.org. Amber is a former office manager and current mother and writer.

How to Make Use of Landscape Timbers for a Garden Retaining Wall

A timber retaining wall is an excellent addition to any garden. If you are looking to add beauty and personality to your outside area then this is a fantastic way of doing so. There are many possibilities a retaining wall offers. You can use this to mark out a space for a vegetable patch, a play area for your children, somewhere to relax, or for a flower bed. The options at your disposal are vast, yet all offer the same quality; they bring more excitement, style and better utilization of space. Not only this, but timber soars in comparison to other options such as concrete or stone. Timber is widely considered a better choice. It is not only cheaper but it has a stunning, traditional and rustic feel to it.

If you want to create a retaining wall from landscape timbers, this article will help you to do just that. So let’s begin by preparing the area for the construction of your wall. You need to determine exactly where you want the wall to be and you will need to mark this in the ground. Use driving pickets to do so. The next step is to excavate. You will need to make sure that the base is level in order to avoid a wonky retaining wall. Use crushed rock to achieve this; approximately seven to eight inches of this should do the trick.

After you have completed these steps you have effectively prepared the area for the wall. Make sure you create a carpenter’s line so you can lay the first row of landscape timbers. You will need to drill holes into the landscape timbers so that you can add the reinforcement steel bars. Make sure you effectively hammer these bars into the ground so that they are firmly marked in.

Before you begin with the second course of timber you should install the drainage weeping tile.This needs to go on the up side of the already placed timber. Make sure it is level with the bottom of the timber and the holes should be facing down. This will work to make sure any water that descends flows away from the wall. It is recommended you use some of the crushed rock you have already used earlier for the base to also cover the tile.

Now you have dealt with water drainage you can begin to finish off your wall by adding the rest of the timber. Make sure you offset the joints. This is essential if you want your wall to be a strong and stable one. Keep adding the timber until you have reached the height you want your wall to be. If you are going for a high wall then it is worth noting that the installation of deadmen timbers is recommended to add security.

And last but not least, make sure you secure the wall with bolts. Add the finishing touches with the topsoil, plants, and anything else you are going to use. Once you have done this you can sit back and admire!


Author bio
Kristina Louis is a freelance writer by profession. She loves to learn about retaining wall Brisbane and has written a number of blogs on landscaping ideas.

Simple Guide to Foraged Plants

There are many reasons for foraging for plants: from an extra food source to just being more aware of your environment. However, you should always make sure that you correctly identify all plants before eating them. Here are a few examples of plants that you can forage for in the United States:

1. Agarita - Scientific name: Mahoniatrifoliolata.This bush is an evergreen shrub that stands out due to its red berries. Common in the Southwest, the leaves are very sharp and pointy, much like a holly plant, and can make harvesting the berries difficult. However the berries are high in Vitamin C. The berries ripen in the spring and the plants typically prefer the shade of larger trees and rarely stand alone. The sweet, tart berries can be eaten raw or cooked into jelly or pies. The small seeds can be roasted and ground as a caffeine free coffee substitute.

2. Alyssum - Scientific name: Lobulariamaritime. With pretty white flower clusters this plant is typically found in cultured flower beds. It is also known as “Sweet Alyssum” due to its fragrance, but it is actually related to mustard, and, thus, has the same spicy flavor. The flowers, stems, and leaves can be eaten raw or added as a mustard-like spice to dishes.

3. Amaranth- Scientific name: Amaranthus spp. Also called "pigweed," this plant comes in a wide variety of shapes and colors, including a decorative red variety. All types’ leaves and seeds can be safely eaten raw, or you can toast and then grind the seeds into flour. The leaves are full of vitamins A and C, along with the minerals calcium, iron, and phosphorous, and also fiber. The seeds have protein, calories, and minerals with a nutty flavor.

4. Arrow-wood- Scientific name: Viburnum dentatum. The berries of this plant are edible. Ripening in early fall, the dark berries appear after the cluster of inedible white flowers depart. Fresh berries have a large seed and can be made into jelly. However, as the berries age they lose flavor and become unpalatable.

5. Maple- Scientific name: Acer spp. Maple syrup is the most common food obtained from the Maple tree (in late winter), but you can also roast the seeds (appearing in spring) and eat them. Remove the seeds from the “wings” before roasting. Young leaves also are delicious eaten raw in salads.

6. Wild Onion- Scientific name: Allium species. Wild onions typically grow in cooler weather and have small white flowers. With a distinctive scent, they can easily be differentiated from their slightly toxic look-alike, Crow's Poison (Nothoscordum bivalve). Great as a flavor enhancer or even eaten raw, wild onions can be used like scallions in many dishes. The nut-like seeds that form after the flowers can also be eaten raw or cooked.

7. Lotus - Scientific name:Nelumbolutea. The floating Lotus plants are often found in still water. With a complete circular leaf pad, they are easy to tell apart from water lilies. The nuts and tubers of the Lotus can be eaten raw or cooked. The nuts are very difficult to crack and the green center must be removed before eating. The seeds can then be eaten raw, roasted, or ground into flour. The nuts can be harvested in fall and winter. The tubers are much like a potato and grow at the end of runners underwater, so it can make them hard to find. They are good raw, roasted, or candied with a little sugar and ginger. They can be harvested in late summer and fall.


This is a guest post by Liz Nelson from WhiteFence.com. She is a freelance writer and blogger from Houston. Questions and comments can be sent to: liznelson17 @ gmail.com.

Smart Investment in Silver and Gold as a Means of Debt Reduction

Investment in silver and gold has always been a favorite for millions. Of course the preference isn’t baseless at all. Investment in precious metals like gold, silver and platinum is considered to be a convenient way of accumulating significant amounts of real wealth, which can help you to get rid of debt. So, obviously silver and gold investment is pretty much essential when financial well being is the ultimate goal.

Invest according to the market condition:

Perfect timing is the key factor of every investment decision. Before you decide to invest, you need to read the market condition first. The global economy exerts an impact on the metal prices and this can result in frequent ups and downs in the price chart. You must plan your investment according to the changes in the market. This will certainly assist you to grab the most lucrative investment deal at the right time.

The current happenings for gold and silver market

2013 has started on a lackluster note for both gold and silver. Here is an overview of the current market events, have a look:

1. Gold bullion to face significant drop in price: Last month, gold bullion faced a reduction in price of nearly $125 per ounce. Investors are explaining this to be the largest loss since 1983. This has surprised numerous veteran investors. Since February, hardly any increase in the price of gold bullion has been seen. There is speculation that, after a 12 year period of growth, gold is perhaps entering the bear market. This is, indeed, a huge matter of concern for various investors.

2. Liquidation is being considered now: The significant plummet in gold price has made it imperative for various investors to consider liquidation of funds. The continuous decline is even hampering the share price of various mining companies, and that’s why liquidation has appeared as a consideration for some.

3. Silver market may recover soon: The beginning of 2013 was not much stronger for silver prices. January started with a moderate $1.12 gain per ounce, but April ended with a $4.14 drop. It’s quite clear that the first quarter wasn’t a favorable time for the investors in silver. However, there is a chance of betterment for the silver market in the coming months. At least, the market indexes are pointing toward this being the case. The buying opportunities have a great chance to recover. Investing in beaten down silver can be lucrative in the near future.

It’s important to act cautiously for making investment lucrative

Apart from taking heed of the current market happenings, you must also pay attention to a few more important things in order for you to make the most of your silver and gold investment. Some of the important facts have been pointed-out below:

1. Avoid purchasing large bars: It’s safe to buy gold and silver bars weighing up to 500g. Larger bars may make it difficult for you to find buyers. It may even challenge the legitimacy factor. Always keep legitimate documents for your purchase and buy small bars.

2. Be careful with your choice of ETF: When investing in paper gold, you must buy Exchange Traded Funds or ETF, which are directly backed with gold and silver in physical form. This will ensure the security factor, but your best option will always be purchasing actual gold and silver that you physically hold in your possession.

3. Deal online but cautiously: Numerous online programs are available through which you can buy precious metals. It’s very important to deal cautiously while purchasing the metals online. Check the website credentials first and plan your purchase accordingly.

It’s important to keep monitoring the price changes regularly to make the right move for investment. If you’re new to this field, then asking expert investors may simplify the process for you. As the silver market is currently going strong compared to the gold market, you may consider investing in silver. This will definitely make your investment profitable and improving finances will get easier.

Passing Along An Opportunity

I recently received an email from a Casting and Development Producer, reaching out to me in hopes that I might be or know of the person(s) for whom she is looking.  She is currently in the process of casting a documentary series about which she seems very excited.  I am passing this info along:


Casting Call:

Do you and your family need a change? Something that will put family time back to the top of the priority list.

The makers of GOLD RUSH are looking for a family in need of a new challenge.

If you want more family time round the table and less in front of the tv; if you want your gadget addicted children to learn a few more life skills; if you would rather spend more time making a home and less paying for one; or if you would just like to slow things down, then this could be the show for you.

We are working with a major cable network channel to cast for an incredible new documentary series. If you would like a trial run at a life less ordinary then this is your chance. We are offering a taste of life outside the rat race. No gadgets, no junk food, no social media taking over. Land, space, fresh air and plenty of challenges await those looking to try something new…

We look forward to hearing from you. Don’t forget to tell your friends too.


documentarycharacters@gmail.com

SURVIVAL GEAR REVIEW: MSR Stowaway 1.6 Liter Stainless Steel Pot

by Matt M.

Through the years, I have seen many trends in outdoor cookware, from aluminum, non stick coatings, titanium, and various shapes and sizes to fit many needs. Having tried quite a few of the various offerings on backpacking trips, in back country base camps, and in every day life, I consistently come back to one material. Stainless Steel.

Unlike aluminum, it does not impart a flavor to high acid foods, like tomato based pasta sauce. It can be scrubbed clean with a handful of sand, unlike non-stick coatings which would be ruined. It is economically priced, unlike titanium. It is however heavier than aluminum or titanium, and you cannot fry an egg on it like non-stick.

My personal choice for my bicycle tour, backpacking trips, car camping, my bug-out bag, and my daily use in my cabin's kitchen is the MSR Stowaway 1.6 Liter Pot. The durability of this product is exceptional. The first I purchased in the mid 1990's and used for over 15 years before giving it to a friend and purchasing a new one. Why? The new version has a radius from the sides to the bottom allowing easier cleaning, the old version had a couple of tight angles.

The handle and latch work to keep the lid in place for storage. Making it ideal for keeping fragile items safely encased inside one's backpack. I learned the value of this feature while hopping freight trains in my youth. My digital camera was wrapped in a t-shirt, placed in the pot, so when the backpack was thrown from the train the camera would not be damaged. (I do not recommend hopping trains, just an example of the durability of the product.)

There are other products on the market which are specifically designed for a particular type of portable compressed gas or liquid fuel stove, products which wood fired stoves are designed around, etc. All of these are exceptionally well designed within their specific use criteria, but ask yourself, a few months after the SHTF and you have run out of compressed gas canisters and you are resorting to cooking over an open campfire, what are you going to do with your fancy cook pot? How about if you are cooking mussels picked from the rocks at low tide in your tiny little titanium cup? Or you have a met up with a couple of 'guests' and you are looking to make a meal for a few people? That solo cook set is not looking so good...

The Stowaway pot has a long built-in handle which is very sturdy, allowing its use over an open campfire without any worry of spilling. On many occasions I have pulled coals from the main fire and set the pot on the coals to cook my meal, since the pot is wide it is easy to balance on an uneven surface of hot coals. I have also picked my daily limit of mussels and used the pot to steam them prior to making a chowder. Although not large enough to cook them all, I easily cooked enough to get my fill.

So, my cooking pot choice for my Bug-Out Bag, and daily use, the MSR Stowaway 1.6 Liter Pot.

MOVIE REVIEW: "Children of Men" (2006)

As with the book reviews, we return this week from our little break to take a look at the Doomer Fiction film "Children of Men" (2006) Blu-ray (DVD version). Set in a dystopian future that is now only 14 years distant, this film places the viewer in a world not terribly unlike the one we awake to every day -- except that no child has been born to the human race anywhere on Earth in a span of nearly two miserable decades. Needless to say, things do not look well for us as a species. It appears as though humankind may soon near an ignominious extinction.

In this world, things are understandably nearing a collapse stage as people become more and more despondent and unstable. Few stable governments remain, and those that do are in the midst of being overwhelmed by the flood of refugees from around the world, seeking asylum and an escape from the strife gripping most of the world's nations. Unfortunately, this inundating pressure is taxing even those governments that remain functioning, resulting in a pronounced police state attitude in which immigrants are rounded-up, detained, and locked-away in refugee camps. In this setting, we focus on a cynical civil servant who was previously an activist and who finds himself pulled against his will into a scheme that carries with it the implication of providing hope for our dying species.

All things being equal, I rather enjoyed this film. The cast is very well-rounded and talented and the story itself is unique. It will appeal to those of us in the Survivalist / Prepper mindset, while simultaneously having something to offer to those who are interested in more of a science fiction yarn. I recommend that, if you have not already seen this film, check it out; and, if you have seen it, it is still one that you should give serious thought toward adding to your collection.

Guest Post: The Importance of Planning - Part 5

Previous articles in this series by author Allen Currie:

The Importance of Planning - Part 1
The Importance of Planning - Part 2
The Importance of Planning - Part 3
The Importance of Planning - Part 4


A few years into my planning efforts, I finally realized that all my work was theoretical. True, I had lived on a dirt poor farm, AND during the dirty 30’s, so I knew some of the problems and solutions I was dealing with. More so than most people alive today. Still, I knew that theoretical planning was very prone to mistakes.

I decided to move out to my camp, and immediately began to find mistakes. I had been accumulating “stuff” that I thought would be useful in commercial storage. I wanted to be rid of that constant storage expense. I moved everything from the storage unit to the 40 foot container that I was planning for my “house.”. Filled a fairly big percentage of the container. Then I realized that I couldn’t build false walls and insulate inside the container with all that stuff in there. I couldn’t move much of it outside into the rain. My plan to build barns and call them storage sheds was becoming real.

Building using only one person is very much more inefficient than with two or more. Say you have a 5/8 panel of chipboard. It is fairly heavy, but one person can manage it. You want to get it tight under your rafters to stop insects. You get it tight, pick up a nail in one hand, a hammer in the other, and the darned thing always slips at least a little. Finally you have to build something, a sort of shelf, under it to hold it up so you can nail the chipboard in place. Two men could easily do it in half an hour or less. One man can spend five to six hours fiddling with it. Remember, I have no electricity or other useful things there. I don’t want to hire anyone who is going to know where my weaknesses are or even where it is located. I had very severely underestimated the time I needed.

Then along came government with changes in the rules. The rule changes pretty much shot my first summer. One barn completed with only plastic sheeting over the roof, no shingles, no insulation or interior walls. Moreover, when I had been researching for the best place, I had noticed a tectonic fault line very close. I couldn’t find any mention of earthquake on it, ever. I decided it was pretty dormant. I hadn’t been there two months when we got a 3.4 quake. Not big in terms of California, the Philippines, or Japan but pointed out the shortcomings of my theories.

In the spring, I had come in earlier than the previous year with my four-wheel drive vehicle. I got about half way to the camp along this skidoo trail from the nearest so-called road, and hit a sink hole -- literally, quicksand. I spent over a week jacking, digging and “come alonging” my way out of this mess. Then three days filling in the holes that I had made. It was nearly a month before it dried enough that I could get in and out. Up here you top up the gas tank every chance you get, AND carry one or two jerry cans of gas, plus tools and supplies, at all times. Gas stations and stores are few and very far between.

That fall, I thought I would like to over-winter, so I began to cut and split firewood. I built another sledge to insure the firewood would dry and stacked my firewood on it. I also transported in enough shingles and lumber to finish the second “storehouse”/barn. By now, I was half-way through July, so I finished my first barn and started on my second. I also found a quite straight tree to cut and skin the bark off for a fifty foot skid under my container. Snaking a 50 foot tree through the bush by hand is not easy or fun. By late September I had moved a lot of “stuff” from the container to the “barns” by wheel barrow. Not all, but I had some room to work. I was pretty sour about the quality of my planning, particularly not having thought to install steel skids under the container, and to cut windows while it was back in civilization.

While the container was light, I decided to jack it up, so I could get my skids under it. I got some large cement building blocks, and started going around the container from corner to corner with my 20 ton jack, raising the container about half an inch per set, until I could get some blocks in the open space at each corner. It seemed a bit tippy and it slewed around, mostly off the blocks. I swore a lot and manhandled/jacked it back to where it should be. I thought that, once I got it set, the weight would keep it in place. In the end, I bought a number of 4X4 wood timbers and cross stacked them to make a two-foot by three-foot crib, which was much more stable.

We got our first snow. I puttered around, securing the site and my gardens for winter, for a couple of weeks. I figured, at worst, I could survive if I got stuck in camp, but it would be uncomfortable with no insulation in place. I did have 15 of these 18 litre fountain plastic jugs as potable water, a supply of things like spaghetti, which would have been boring but filling, my two woodstoves, sleeping bags, etc. It turned out that the snow came and went, came and went. The roads were horrendous.


I went to a nearby motel (50+ km) and arranged a fairly reasonable rent, so I could do a penultimate edit on my novel, “Operation Phoenix” and begin to consider how to market it. It is available in download, free sample read, and hard copy at www.AllenCurrie.ca.

More to come soon.

Allen Currie

BOOK REVIEW: "Survive and Thrive: 100 Tips for Obtaining Food After the Stores Close" by C. Jeff Oakes

We return to our Monday afternoon book reviews this week by delving into the non-fiction title "Survive and Thrive: 100 Tips for Obtaining Food After the Stores Close" by C. Jeff Oakes (Kindle edition). This book is a follow-up to the author's earlier work "Survive and Thrive After the Collapse of the Dollar," and is meant to expand upon the central idea of that work: that it is possible for one to do rather well for themselves, even in a collapse scenario. Few aspects of survival rival the importance of the basic human need to obtain quality food, so it is only fitting that the second installment in this book series should concentrate on this very central concern.

In addition, the author spends some time talking about how one might thrive in a new post-collapse economy. Unfortunately, that's also where he loses me a bit. He talks about growing marijuana and making moonshine in order to have something to barter; which is a sentiment with which I don't entirely disagree. I am a lifelong advocate of legalizing marijuana and I categorically reject the idea that there is anything wrong with making your own liquor; the only reason it is illegal is because the government can't tax it and they don't like people ruining their fun reaching into our pockets. Still, it is a little off-putting in the context of this book. The author even mentions the possibility of selling sex at one point, so I imagine many will be offended, despite the fact that Realists are aware that plenty of that goes on in a collapse situation as well. I don't think I'm exactly comfortable with folks planning to go that route, rather than doing it out of necessity, but to each his own. Free consenting adults ought to be able to do whatever they want, in my opinion. Then again, I am one of those crazy folks that believes we should actually base our society on free people, rather than trying to live up to other folk's ideas of what is right and what is wrong.

My biggest complaint is that there wasn't really a great deal of information presented. I imagine that this might be a bit of an eye-opener for people who know nothing about keeping a stocked pantry, gardening, etc., but most of us in the Survivalist / Prepper subculture will find it to be little more than a rehash of old information. Also, the supposed "100 Tips..." is a heavily padded number: Some of these "tips" are little more than the author listing different items of food that are a good idea to stockpile.

PRODUCT REVIEW: Augason Farm's Chocolate Morning Moo's Low Fat Milk Alternative

I recently had the opportunity to try some of Augason Farm's Chocolate Morning Moo's Low Fat Milk Alternative, and thought I would share my impressions. This is, of course, a whey-based milk alternative, but be advised that it does contain both dairy and soy, in case there are concerns about allergies or intolerances.

Also, pictured to the left is the Everyday Size can with two standard 8-oz drinking glasses for size/scale referencing. And, as you can see in the photo below, once opened the actual product really doesn't look (or smell, by the way) any different than standard dry chocolate milk mix.

After adding warm water, but before stirring

The label on the can gives clear instructions on how to prepare the drink in different quantities; but, for the purposes of this article, I will tell you how we made it the two 8-oz glasses to try it out. Basically, you take 3 1/2 tablespoons of the dry mix and add to it a half a cup of warm water (I assume to help it dissolve) and a half a cup of cold water. That's it. Easy as can be. Afterward, in order to improve the taste, I put it in the freezer for just a bit and kept a close eye on it to keep it from actually freezing; we just wanted it to be really cold.

Still needed more stirring

Overall, both of us tasting it had positive impressions. Don't get me wrong, it isn't exactly like drinking a glass of chocolate milk. If you go into it expecting that, you will probably be disappointed. What it is, however, is a nice little milk chocolate flavored drink that isn't all that expensive and stores well with up to a 15 year shelf-life.

The only complaints revolved around the fact that it was a little "gritty," but that has more to do with our failure to stir it properly then it does the drink itself. I think that the next glass I try, I will attempt using actual hot water, as opposed to warm, and see if that helps it dissolve better. It will, of course, take it longer to get cold that way, but I think it would be worth it. I may also use a little less water to try to make it thicker. If one were to make a larger quantity, they may benefit from doing it in a blender or something along those lines to be sure to get it stirred and get all of the powder dissolved properly.

If I actually go forward with any of those changes, I will be sure to update this review to let you know how it turns out. Either way, I am very happy with this product as-is and will definitely be adding more of it to our long-term storage food supply.

Have you ever tried Augason Farm's Chocolate Morning Moo's Low Fat Milk Alternative? If so, let me know what you think in the comments section below.

Mountain House Freeze Dried Food Sale Through 15 May!

(Click graphic to access sale)

Price good on all in-stock items online only. No back-orders allowed at sale price. Offer good until 5/15/2013. All discounted products are already marked down, no coupon code required.

Guest Post: Pest Control Advice for a Rural Homestead

Image courtesy of http://www.vincenzo.gr/periv/tilastika/3.html

From spreading diseases to chewing through equipment, there are no two ways about it - rats are a pest. If you live on a rural homestead, an infestation of rats or mice can do some serious damage to your crops and livestock. As soon as you begin to notice signs of some furry co-residents, you should take action to prevent the problem from getting worse. Fortunately, there are several easy, affordable and environmentally friendly ways of removing rats and mice from the area. Here are some of the best.

Tidy up

Before anything else, your first reaction after noticing signs of a rodent infection should be to have a good, extensive tidy up. Rodents will seek shelter in enclosed, dark areas so make sure you clear up any old pallets or machinery. Throw away any rubbish, especially organic waste, to remove any potential food sources. Once the area has been cleared, cut back any overgrown vegetation and dispose of the waste.

Plug the holes

Secondly, locate any potential entrances around the homestead such as holes in walls and drainage pipes. Seal them by plugging them with fine steel wool. Extensively examine all obvious entrance points and block them with wood or fill in holes with cement. Expendable filler may seem attractive as a more affordable option, but rodents may eventually chew through it.

Attract natural predators

To help clear your infestation and also deter any future rats and mice, try and attract natural predators to your homestead. Cats can help keep rodents away, and rats and mice make a tasty snack for owls. Setting up a nesting box for them to nest and roost in will attract them to your property and provide a clean and natural method of pest control. Nestboxes can be picked up from wildlife centres at an affordable price, and will be much cheaper and better for the environment than pesticides.

Traps and repellents

When dealing with livestock and organic crops, pesticides and harmful traps may not be the most desirable method of pest control. Try exploring other preventative methods of pest control such as ultrasonic repellents, which emit a high-frequency sound that repels rodents. Various live traps are available as well, which contain the rodent safely until you can find a suitable place to release it.

Whatever you do, keep it up

Solving a rodent problem is not simply a case of step one, step two, step three. Prevention is always the best form of solution, as it is always easier to discourage pests in the first place rather than getting rid of them. When going about your day-to-day duties keep up regular maintenance of your homestead. Clear up any food spillage immediately. Keep seed, grain, and pet food of all types in covered, sealed containers.

By paying close attention to the way you dispose of rubbish and keeping regular maintenance of your property, you will find rats and mice much less likely to invade. On the occasion you do find an infestation, then quick, clean and environmentally friendly action is guaranteed to get your homestead up and running again.


Written by Marion C. European Ecommerce Content Specialist at Victor Pest.
Victor®, the global leader in rodent control, offers a variety of innovative rat control solutions such as electronic rat traps, ultrasonic rat repellents and rodenticides to help you with all your rodent control needs. Victor® has all the information you need to get rid of the rat in your home.

Guest Post: Storage Technologies for Renewable Energy Sources

Renewable energy is taking the world by storm. More and more there are wind and solar farms popping up as well as new technology that allows us to harness energy from biomass and even landfill gasses. Therefore, as the world makes this shift and discovers energy where it was not previously being derived from, the big question is how we store our renewable energy. This is a relevant question for both large-scale energy grids and providers and small communities or households with their own renewable energy sources.

The reality is that currently renewable energy sources feed into the system and account for only a varying percentage of the electricity produced in each state and before we see, a shift to 100% renewable energy there needs to be a reliable method to store the energy when it is produced so it can be used when it is demanded. There are quite a few key players in the race to find the best method to harness this power and convert it back to usable energy as it is needed.

Electro-Catalysts / Electrolisers

Two Canadian researchers at the University of Calgary have invented a method that involves using rust as a catalyst. The rust in the electro-catalysts takes the place of precious and expensive metals that were previously used in the process. The rust creates a reaction that separates the water into hydrogen and oxygen molecules. When the energy stored in the cell is demanded the process reverses.

By using the rust and oxidation in place of more expensive metals, the cost of production for electro-catalysts decreases. The pair of creators are predicting that this storage method will be available as a home solution by 2015.

Compressed Air

Danielle Fong, 25, is working with compressed air as a means to store energy from renewable sources. The idea is that power from a renewable source will run the motor that compresses air inside the canister. The process reverses when the energy is needed. Initially there was a problem with energy being lost through heat as the compressed air became very hot. Fong remedied this issue by using a spray of water to cool the air and then a process to separate the air from the water.

A process similar to this was used in on a much smaller scale for years prior especially in the mining community. Fong hopes to take this technology and apply it in a much larger way.

The Promise: Independence from Providers

Many schools and research institutions made significant progress in this field and there are many technology programs for students who are in the race to become the creator of the perfect storage solution for renewable energy. A leading energy company has even managed to manufacture and patent the very first AC power battery in history. Researchers of the MIT are experimenting with a technology similar to photosynthesis that could store and provide clean energy even when the sun isn’t shining.

Big electric companies are also experimenting with new ways of storing energy but the most promising experiments could free us completely from electrical grids. Most of the new technologies are yet hard to implement and costly to manufacture but they are however a necessity. According to the researchers, in the next 10-15 years there will be a generally available technology that can make anyone’s home 100 percent energy self-sufficient without any extra effort.


About the author: This is a guest post by freelance writer and college student Jonathan Mehlig, who usually covers sustainability, green innovation and tech topics.